fashion

art-destruction as holiday gift \/\/ warhol stocking stuffer

November 26, 2009
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art-destruction as holiday gift \/\/ warhol stocking stuffer

Books make great holiday gifts. They’re not usually very big or expensive, though they can be both. And they can signal a regard for the receiver’s interests, intelligence, and aesthetic sense.  This sort of multi-level communication is very much in vogue these days. The Philosophy of Andy Warhol from A to B and Back Again (1975) is maybe the easiest book to give, at least in my library. Everyone loves it.  So many people that it almost cuts down on the specialness of the book as a gift.  Except for that it is an incredibly intimate piece of writing.  Not exactly in the sense offered by the latest Kitty Kelley biography, which imagines the uncovering of salacious gossip as some kind of final or conclusive knowledge about its protagonist.  And Warhol loved every porny detail, don’t get me wrong. The thing is this is a “philosophy”: a warm, funny, charismatic, and full view of the world, its workings and its workers. The chapters alternate between a transcript of a telephone dialogue between “A” and “B,” and loose collections of anecdotes and aphorisms. Both genres are longtime staples of philosophical writing: Plato and Rousseau wrote dialogues, Pascal and Nietzsche wrote aphorisms. In

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dogface boy \/\/ ……in case you were wondering.

November 20, 2009
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dogface boy \/\/ ……in case you were wondering.

.. . Antony Hegardy o Is the reason ghosts love the rain. “The Lake” Edgar Allen Poe Reinterpreted by Antony Hegardy In youth’s spring, it was my lot To haunt of the wide earth a spot To which I could not love the less So lovely was the loneliness Of a wild lake, with black rock bound And the tall trees that towered around But when the night had thrown her pall Upon that spot as upon all And the wind would pass me by In it’s stilly melody My infant spirit would awake To the terror of the lone lake My infant spirit would awake To the terror of the lone lake Yet that terror was not fright But a tremulous delight And a feeling undefined Springing from a darkened mind Death was in that poisoned wave And in it’s gulf a fitting grave For him who thence could solace bring To his dark imagining Whose wildering though could even make An Eden of that dim lake But when the night had thrown her pall Upon that spot as upon all And the wind would pass me by In it’s stilly melody My infant spirit would awake To the

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dahranjelo’s digest \/\/ pukpuk never made it out alive

October 26, 2009
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dahranjelo’s digest \/\/ pukpuk never made it out alive

PUKPUK, Peru Punks, Stargazers, Disco Geishas and Space Angels. We are living in the future that Walter van Beirendonck  kissed over 16 years ago.  The Wild & Lethal Trash site with PUKPUK had my attention for hours that turned to days. What was I doing spending so much time at his site? Playing his video game Space Race. Turn ON the monitor and twist the dial. It’s not  easy fashion but  there is technique or something more abstract. This bear and Antwerp design genius continues and will always be followed. Walter is one of the Belgian Antwerp Six comprised of Dirk van Saene, Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, and Dirk Bikkembergs, who all graduated from the Royal Arts Academy from 1980-82. He used fabrics developed by the very latest technologies in violently contrasting colors. He produced clothes that were full of erotic and sadomasochistic references, touched with a caustic adolescent humor. His highly confrontational approach relates to a resurgence of anti-fashion, but this time an anti-fashion with nothing in the least orientalist in its origins, instead based on science fiction that inspired displays of high-spirited provocation. SEX ME UP WITH YOUR PHALLUS HELMUT AESTHETIC TERRORISTS FASHION AT THE

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dahranjelo’s digest \/\/ silver-tongued bowevils

October 19, 2009
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dahranjelo’s digest \/\/ silver-tongued bowevils

Ill-fitting synthetics, bi-weekly baths, and lack of personal de-lousing will get you buzz only a “fly girl” can swing. I have a pointy finger tipped with a dirty nail aimed right at your ass. “It’s comfortable,” she says. With fly eggs and cigarette burns. Grow and evolve like the maggot turns to fly. Photo credit: Joe Bahret

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ricardo tisci’s return to reality \/\/ givenchy fall/winter 09

May 26, 2009
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ricardo tisci’s return to reality \/\/ givenchy fall/winter 09

The Avant Guardian, like most women, is a fickle beast. Last week I hated Ricardo Tisci for ripping off my favorite dark mastermind, Tom Binns. This week I don’t care who he rips off, as long as he keeps doing what he’s doing. The Givenchy Fall ad campaign was just released, and it made me realize that I had completely overlooked the line. And I don’t just mean this season, either, I think I’ve been ignoring Givenchy for a good long time. Well, Mr. Tisci, if you’re reading this, please accept my deepest apologies. When I saw this photo I let out a stream of curse words so intense they probably insulted people in all five buroughs. But, for fuck’s sake, are you kidding me with the bleached eyebrows and Spock hair? Way to make it hurt so good, Givenchy. Then I went back and looked at every single piece from the runway show and felt complete shock and awe. Fuck all the haters who say the collection sucks, and “is better suited to Gareth Pugh’s collection”? (Why is that a bad thing, anyways?) This collection is back in black and dead sexy, and, oh my fucking god, is that

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totempyrean \/\/ jean-pierre braganza

May 19, 2009
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totempyrean \/\/ jean-pierre braganza

Last week wunderkind and Lagerfeld protogé Jean-Pierre Braganza unveiled his A/W 09 collection, entitled ” Totempyrean” at Milan’s Fashion Week. Braganza, a Brit-born Canadian, used to show in London, but switched over to Milan recently. The collection, Braganza told Coutorture, was inspired by Native American imagery and futuristic, sculptural tailoring. The hard-edges of the collection were softened by prints that came from digitally manipulated x-rays. For me, Braganza combines the best of Balenciaga (silhouettes), the sleek lines of McQueen, the rockstar attitude of Rick Owens, and mixes it all together with a whisk of origami-perfect pleating. Not that Braganza isn’t entirely original, he is. I wouldn’t call his look fresh or anything else that sounds like lemonade, but there is something new in his aesthetic. While I can find elements of many lines in his work, it points only towards the future. Braganza’s minimal use of color is spectacular. I love the combinations of black and purple, and the space age blues. Arctic fox rubs up against merino in a symphony of textures. You can almost hear the heart beating behind this collection, it’s all raging guitar solos and drum machine whirs and hisses. In fact, it sounds a little

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ain’t dead yet \/\/ just resting

April 27, 2009
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ain’t dead yet \/\/ just resting

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re-inventing alexander mcqueen \/\/ a/w 09

March 18, 2009
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re-inventing alexander mcqueen \/\/ a/w 09

What happens when Amanda Lepore, MC Escher, and the ghost of McQueen season’s past collide on the runway? Duh, magic. Absolute and total magic. It looks like a car crash gone terribly terribly right, and I can’t get enough of it. Okay, so I’m actually pretty sure that Ms. Lepore herself was not in attendance at the show, but her lips are everywhere, on every model, black and bold, and cartoon hot. MC Escher printed fabrics and the ubiquitous houdstooth abound. Silhouettes so ruffled and flounced and corseted they could only be McQueen. The theme of McQueen’s A/W 09 collection is reinvention, and while I think of him as a designer who is constantly revising and reprising his own work diligently, the idea of renewal was definitely underscored here. Models paraded against backdrop of destroyed car parts with spraypainted soda cans in their hair. It wasn’t just Mr. McQueen’s ideas that were being recycled and reused, it was everything. Photo Credits: fashionologie

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faster faster \/\/ mark fast a/w 09

March 16, 2009
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faster faster \/\/ mark fast a/w 09

Mark Fast is a young upstart knitwear designer from Canada who is fast making a name for himself in the international fashion community. He grew up in some secluded forest fairytaleland outside of Winnipeg. The solemn quietude of his childhood pressed tightly against his growing genius, and he eventually found his way to London, where he studied at Central Saint Martins. Before setting out on his own, Mark did three seasons of knitwear for Bora Aksu. Fast knits all of his pieces himself on a domestic knitting machine. His innovative techniques, such as blending lycra with natural fibers, like angora and wool, or soft, sculptable fabrics, like viscose, result in pieces that are texturally complex, and that adhere to the body in extraordinary ways. Fast is all about creating pieces that transcend the trends. “I believe there is a growing interest in craftsmanship in fashion these days,” he says, “as opposed to quick fix disposable pieces. I am focusing on timeless classics.”  I, for one, hope to Christ that this is what timeless classics look like in knitwear from now on. Fast’s designs combine a comprehensive historical perspective with his modern sensibility. The end product is a line of super

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by popular demand \/ gareth pugh for men

March 14, 2009
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by popular demand \/ gareth pugh for men

So, I neglected to mention that Gareth Pugh also released his first-ever menswear collection for A/W 09, and it is every bit as swoonworthy as the women’s collection. With baited breath, I wait for a world in which all men dress like this. This leather jacket on the right is so effing hot, it’s black, metallic, quilted, and delicious. I’m totally nuts for the boots with that jacket, as well. To the knee, leather with studded straps? Yes, please. Are you shitting me with this jacket collection. I want every single one of these. I have a feeling we’re going to be seeing a lot more of this structured, belted vibe in leathers starting now. Check a video of the runway show from The New York Times. Photo Credits: Raras Coincidencias Neoyorquinas

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