Desira Pesta: Hidden Among The Folds
Tucked away in a far little corner of Red Hook, there is a gem of an atelier. Inside you will find the semi-structured, semi-precious, and completely swoon-worthy fall/winter 08 collection by Desira Pesta. The collection is called Fela Sig., meaning to hide oneself. This tongue-in-cheek witticism is typical of Desira, who is equal parts artist, designer, and pioneer. The line itself is inspired by silent films, architecture, and whatever else falls under her radar. If asked to name a centerpiece of the Fela Sig collection, I would say that her architecture dress fits the bill.
Pesta's "Architecture" Dress
The dress is made of a lovely soft white organic cotton, hand silkscreened with print of abstracted buildings by Robert Daurio. Black piping completes every seam. The combination of the high-necked bow and the complex print in another designer’s hands would come off as frumpy, but here the effect is part intelligentsia, part pretty party dress.
Desira says of this collaboration with Daurio (who has also made prints for Prada), “Most of my good friends are architects and filmmakers and musicians, so we often collaborate. I often have close ties to the non-fashion influences I utilize. I am a close friend of Robert Daurio’s. I always wanted to bridge the gap between fine art /sculpture and functional wearables. Clothing is an extension of my art and my interests.”
Pesta is a painter and interior architect by training. So, how did she come into clothing? She says, “I have gone about starting a fashion company in an entirely Bohemian way. I taught myself how to sew during art/architecture school and fashion was pulled out of thin air, with much reference and aid from history and those around me, but with a heavy reliance on my drawings and a painterly approach.”
Desira Pesta’s focused painterly approach is what makes her work recognizably her own, but she does pay attention to the larger world of fashion. “I do pay attention to trends and watch all the big shows, she says, “read some magazines and blogs, and peruse the work of my peers, but they are usually the most avant garde and the multi-media-rich out there. I do have an interest in traditional fashion, but I have a much bigger interest in the aforementioned.”
Pesta's "Architecture" Dress (detail)
Desira is a designer who is wholly dedicated to her vision, and to maintaining her artistic integrity. That being said, she is fully aware of what it takes to win and keep an audience, which gives her an edge. Her work, even when its references are as high art and abstracted as they come, stays beautiful, and her emphasis on tailoring keeps up the clean lines. She says, “the ostentatiousness of some of what I make is too much art and not enough wear for the general public. Bold color is one of these components that sometimes is prohibitive. I also have found the need to be less aggressive with boldness or texture and do some subdued clothing, as I too enjoy the classical forms of yesteryear. So, I often do what I feel, yet also have offerings for the more sober palette.”
In the future we can expect more collaborations, more menswear and housewear from Pesta. Her designs are available on http://www.etsy.com/ and at http://www.desirapesta.com.
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